On another blisteringly hot day we left Hoi An and took a bus to Danang to catch a day train to Nha Trang in the former South Vietnam. The day in question also happened to be 30 April, Reunification Day, and one of the major public holidays in Vietnam. We were told the station would be busy and it was. Entire families with huge bags and other belongings were camped out ready to catch the train to visit their extended families, whilst we stood getting in the way with our unwieldy rucksacks and bottles of water.
Vietnamese trains are functional but have definitely seen better days. Cleaning appears to be erratic and actually seems to commence after the train has started its journey. The air conditioning didn't kick in until the train was moving either, so we fought our way to seats whilst sweat rolled off our faces and down our backs and then spent the next ten hours sitting in a sodden state as the air conditioning alternatively worked then didn't and the sun blazed fiercely through the windows.
In between the news, game shows and subtitled American movies on Train TV, we talked, ate, snoozed, read and listened to music to kill the time. A few disappeared to the drinks carriage again, one of our group returning wearing a completely different shirt to the one he'd gone in wearing. He'd swapped his with one of the locals.
We finally arrived in Nha Trang at about 9pm. The town felt like it was already in party mode as young Vietnamese rode around town with two and three to a motorbike, beeping horns and weaving in and out of traffic.
The most attractive thing about Nha Trang is its beaches. Beautiful golden sands, palm trees and clear, blue water. I'm not a beach or sunbathing fan but even I was drawn to the beach cabanas and sat gazing out at the South China Sea, even venturing in on one occasion. When I think of Vietnam, beaches are probably way down the list, but Nha Trang really is a hidden gem. Great beachfront bars, cool lounges, spa and massage places all over town, it really was a great place to take forty-eight hours out from the relentless travelling.
I've been surprised and impressed with Vietnamese food on this trip and a great example of this is Lanterns, a small but excellent restaurant in Nha Trang, that serves Vietnamese as well as Western food. The shrimp claypot was absolutely stunning, so much so I went back and had it again the next day! As well as serving great food, Lanterns raises awareness and support for good causes in the Nha Trang area. You can also volunteer your time to help teach English to local children through Lanterns.
After two days R&R we were back on the road, this time by overnight sleeper bus to Ho Chi Minh City or Saigon, the penultimate destination on our Vietnamese adventure. It would prove to be an adventure in more ways than one.