To travel into Laos we caught the overnight sleeper train from Bangkok to Nong Khai on the Thai-Laos border. Following our experiences on the overnight train in Vietnam we were pleased and a little relieved to find that this time the carriage was arranged in a two-tier bunk arrangement running the length of the carriage, rather than the six-berth arrangement in Vietnam. Sleeping arrangements were spacious and comfortable. Porters made up the beds with cotton sheets and blankets and each bed had its own curtain for privacy. As experiences go it was very pleasant and one of the better overnight travel experiences so far.
Next morning, the conductor woke everyone up by walking the length of the carriage making rooster noises before offering options of breakfast and coffee. It was then we discovered that we were going to be delayed by some four or so hours and would be getting into Nong Khai nearer midday rather than the 8.20am printed on our tickets. We still had to cross the Thai and Laos borders so, allowing for any delays, we would be getting into Vientiane quite late in the afternoon. Given that we were leaving the very next day to go to Vang Vieng, it allowed us little or no time in the Laos capital.
Finally arriving at Nong Khai we crammed ourselves and our belongings into tuk tuks for the short drive from the train station to border control. This time we were through the Thai border pretty swiftly, though as usual I seemed to have chosen to stand in the slowest moving queue with the most officious and miserable-looking immigration official. We then caught a public bus the short distance over the Friendship Bridge to the Laos border.
After filling in an immigration form, submitting a passport photo, paying $35 and waiting for a few minutes, I was rewarded with a Laos visa and duly made my way into the People's Democratic Republic of Laos. We caught minivans to travel the 20km or so to Vientiane. Luggage had to be stored on top of the van, secured, somewhat optimistically, by a single piece of rope. We spent the journey wondering which of our backpacks would fly off the roof first but amazingly the rope held everything in place.
Laos is one of the poorest countries in the world but I was immediately struck by how lush the country seems. Green paddy fields and trees lining the horizon give way to surprisingly well built and elegant-looking houses, interspersed with simpler wooden built homes. Vientiane, much like Phnom Penh, has remnants of its French heritage in the colonial style buildings and wide boulevard-style avenues. I felt an instant connection with Laos. Much like Cambodia the people seemed friendlier and were quick to smile. It was refreshing after our experiences in Thailand.
We arrived in Vientiane late in the day. After dumping bags and a quick bite to eat we decided to make the most of the remaining day by hiring a tuk tuk to bring us around the city. What we realised having done the tour is that there isn't a great deal to see in Vientiane apart from the odd Wat or temple. However I'm glad I got to see at least a little bit of the city. I should also mention our tuk tuk driver who had one of the kindest, smiliest faces I've ever met. Indeed, as we leaving next morning he was outside the hotel and smiled and waved. He's the one in the photo above.
Dinner that night was at another charitable restaurant Makphet, part of the Friends network of restaurants that we had visited in Phnom Penh. One of the dishes I had - eggplant in a traditional Lao sauce served with sticky rice - was absolutely delicious and had a real kick to it. As a first introduction to Lao cooking, it was a triumph. After a long day and night travelling, and with another long day ahead we all headed home for an early night. Tomorrow we were off to Vang Vieng, the party capital of Laos.